OK, here is something that is new to everyone. As I mentioned before, there were some itinerary changes from what we were told in Korea to what we actually saw in China. Again, mostly due to a lack up updating from the China Airlines Korea branch. One of the items was a trip to the Beijing Opera. What had actually happened is the trip to the opera was dropped from our tour due to a normal lack of interest. Here is a brief sample to see why. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9PxDPt0aWk For many western ears, not the most melodious of sounds. So, our tour guide talked instead about the possibility of seeing a Kung-fu show that many people have said they liked (that's because it rocks, but that is for another post). The catch is that it is not covered in the basic price of the tour. Also, that night a number of people had ordered a room massage, so most folks were ready just to get back to the hotel and rest. Wendy announced to the group that if people wanted, they could go and see the Beijing Opera, which was included in the price, or go to a Kung-Fu show that was not included(and cost about 20$). Also, if we wanted to go to the opera, it would have to be tonight and the Kung-fu show was every night. So, a number of people said they were interested in the Kung-fu show and they wanted to go the next night. So that was decided. Now, while the opera was not one of the things I really needed to see in China, three things were bouncing around in my head. One, it was part of Chinese culture, and did have elaborate costumes and makeup. Two, it was already paid for and I had nothing else to do that night. And three, from the brief bit of Opera I had watched on TV the night before, it was going to hurt my ears. However, the first two won out and I asked Wendy about the possibility of me going to the Opera. She called another tour guide with the company and found out that there were some people from his tour going, and I could hook up with them and he would have my ticket. The catch was that I would have to get there and back to the hotel on my own via taxi. A quick note on Taxis in Beijing. The drivers don't speak any English, and the price is very reasonable. So armed with a piece of paper with my destination written on it, and the hotel card that has a map and says in Chinese "Take me to this hotel" that I use on any taxi driver (seriously, the hotel cards all just have maps and phrases written in Chinese that we are supposed to just show the taxi drivers, that's how people get back to their hotels), I waved goodbye to my fellow travelers, and stepped off the bus by the side of the road not having a clue where the heck I was.
So I flagged down a taxi, showed him the piece of paper I had where Wendy had written my destination, and headed out. My instructions were to be in the lobby of the hotel where the theater was at 7:20pm and talk to a guy in jeans and a black northface jacket. That's what I had to go on. Well I got to the hotel just fine, and walked into the lobby with 2 minutes to spare. I looked around and saw... nobody fitting that description. I didn't have any phone number or any other way to contact...pretty much anyone, so I just waited. I saw a guy I thought may fit the description, I couldn't tell if his jacket was northface or not, and I walked up behind him and was just about to ask him if he knew Wendy, when he started talking Korean to the person in front of him and I backed away as nonchalantly as I could. Show-time was at 7:30 and I was getting nervous that I missed him. I was thinking about just buying a ticket myself, but I wasn't really thrilled with that idea. The lobby was clearing out as people were taking their seats and I was just about to head out and just take a taxi back to my hotel, when in walked a guy fitting the description to a tee, followed by a small group of tourists. With 2 minutes to show-time, we got our tickets, he said his farewell, and walked in to the theater.
The theater had tables for dinner dining up at the front, and a VIP section in the middle, from half way up it was regular seating. The place was not crowded, but wasn't empty either. There were chairs right up to the curtain where we walked in, and as we did so we of course stopped and looked around to see where we wanted to sit. For some reason, a guy had decided to sit right there and we were blocking his view as there was nowhere else to stand, so he looked very upset with us. Why in a half empty theater you would want to sit there, I don't know. Sorry to ramble, but I just had to share that. OK, so we took our seats and I sat right in the front of the regular seats on the left side. I asked and we were able to take pictures, just with no flash(one of the things I loved about China), so this was a good spot. This hotel was built around the opera theater, so this was clearly made for tourists. This is very important because on each side of the stage, there were large moving message boards that showed subtitles for the whole thing(while there actually was not that much to read, it was VERY nice to at least know the basic story points). Also, the introduction speech was in English, explaining the history and some of the aspects of Beijing Opera. Don't worry, I am almost done talking, but this is the important part. Beijing opera, it turns out, is MUCH more than just the unique singing. It is a combination of dance, acrobatics, music, and costumes. The program at this theater actually rotates each night, so I don't know if I just got lucky, but what followed was nothing like I was expecting, and was an amazing time. Here is some more info on the Beijing opera in general. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beijing_opera
The first act was called "The crossroads" and it was about a general who is sneaking through enemy territory to meet with a higher ranking general. He stops at an inn, and the innkeeper looks a bit shady to him. So at night he closes all the windows and blows out the candles in his room making it pitch dark. His suspicions appear correct as the innkeeper comes in with his sword and tries to attach the general. The sword fight that ensues is supposed to take place completely in the dark(while of course we can see everything) and was extremely fun to watch. In the end, the higher ranking general comes in and reveals that they are all on the same side. The two combatants quickly make up and they all decide to go in back and have some tea.
It was a great show that used the table, the whole stage, and two very fast swords. Plus there as absolutely no singing during the whole thing. The next performance was the main act, it was a love story between a traveling scholar and a river nymph that fell in love and defied the laws of Heaven. As a result the armies of Heaven come down and do battle with the river nymph's forces. So turtles, fish etc. fight the sky soldiers. The costumes were amazing, the choreography was great, the river nymph made Xena look like an amateur. The highlight was when she took on a group of soldiers by herself and they where throwing their spears at her and she was juggling them back at them...with her feet. As the spears were bouncing under her and around her, she would kick her leg back and around and with the bottom of her foot, hit the spear and send it back to the soldier that threw it. Honestly I thought it was just as impressive as the acrobatics show that we had seen the night before. I felt bad though because I was the only one able to see this. It was really undersold and I am sure there were plenty of people on the tour that would have liked it. Then again, as I said, I don't know if I just got lucky and saw some very good performances. I tried to capture the action as best I could, so use your imagination and enjoy the pictures.
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